Sjursnestinden (1122), Tromsø, Norway




Sjursnestinden (1122) as seen Sørfjorden. The South ridge is marked in red.

A brief description of the South ridge route: The approach to the ridge is rather complicated. See the map and the pictures below.
The actual ridge is straighforward with easy scrambling all the way to the summit.


The British mountaineer Claud Rawlence claimed
in Alpine Journal vol. 20 to have made the first ascent of the peak together with
the Swiss guides Josef and Emil Imboden
. The report from Alpine Journal below gives the impression that they actually climbed Litletinden.

From Alpine Journal Vol. 20: New Expeditions in 1899.

SOMMERBUGTTIND (FIRST ASCENT) (aka Store Rieppefjellet, 1295 m).
On August 16 Mr. Claud Rawlence, with the two Imbodens, made the first ascent of this peak, which is visible from Holmebugt, and is to the
west of the Sørfjord. Having quitted Holmebugt at 8 P.M., they arrived on the summit at 1.30 A.M. by the East ridge. Descending in a N.W.
direction they reached a glacier lake at 3 A.M. Thence, ascending over easy rocks and traversing an upper glacier, they gained at5 A.M.
the top of LALABAKTIND (FIRST ASCENT) (aka Sennedalfjellet, 1395 m), which is the highest summit of the group.
Thence, passing along a long aréte and over another but less well defined summit (Tverrfjellet, 1394), they traversed a narrow and interesting
ridge, and arrived on the top of the SKJURSNOESTIND (FIRST ASCENT) at 8 A.M. The descent to Sørfjordens Kirche
was made by narrow snow couloirs down the east face, the fjord being reached at 11 A.M. The weather during the morning was fine.

Mr. Rawlence´s first ascent claim was corrected by Geoffrey Hasting in the same volume:

We learn from Mr. G. Hastings that he made this ascent on September 8, 1897, found 
the vestiges of a cairn on the top, and heard
of at least one person 
who had been up before. He found the height to be 3,800 ft.




The traverse over Sjursnestinden, Litletinden, Tverrfjellet and Sennedalfjellet.
Climbed by Kent-Hugo Norheim and Geir Jenssen, 30. August 2009.
It took us 13 hours!
 



Sjursnestinden (1122) as seen from Litletinden (1235). The South ridge is marked in red.




The scree that we climbed from Tredjedalen towards Point 909 south of Litletinden.




A view towards Fjerdedalen, Fjerdedalsvatnet and the Blåisen glacier.
The Sami name for the lake and the glacier is Jietnjajavrrit and Olmáijietnja respectively.




A slightly difficult rock band - before reaching the South ridge - was climbed by following the grassy ledges in the center of this picture.




The South ridge of Sjursnestinden from the notch between Sjursnestinden and Litletinden. The summit is to the left.




Looking down the South ridge of Sjursnestinden.




Kent-Hugo Norheim on the summit.




Sjursnes.




Sjursnestinden as seen from the North face of Litletinden.





Sjursnestinden from Tverrfjellet.


© Geir Jenssen 2009

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