Sjursnestinden (1122)
as
seen Sørfjorden. The South ridge is marked in red.
A brief
description of the South ridge route: The approach to the ridge is
rather complicated. See the map and the pictures below.
The actual ridge is straighforward with easy scrambling all the way to
the summit.
The British mountaineer Claud Rawlence claimed in Alpine Journal vol. 20 to have made the first ascent of the peak together with
the Swiss guides Josef and Emil Imboden. The report from Alpine Journal below
gives
the impression that they actually climbed Litletinden.
From Alpine Journal Vol. 20: New Expeditions in 1899.
SOMMERBUGTTIND (FIRST ASCENT) (aka
Store Rieppefjellet, 1295 m). On August 16 Mr. Claud Rawlence, with
the two Imbodens, made the first
ascent of this peak, which is visible from Holmebugt, and is to the west of the Sørfjord. Having
quitted Holmebugt at 8 P.M., they
arrived on the summit at 1.30 A.M. by the East ridge. Descending in a
N.W. direction they reached a glacier lake
at 3 A.M. Thence, ascending over
easy rocks and traversing an upper glacier, they gained at5 A.M. the top of LALABAKTIND (FIRST ASCENT)
(aka Sennedalfjellet,
1395 m),
which is the highest summit of the group. Thence, passing along a long
aréte and over another but less
well defined summit (Tverrfjellet,
1394), they traversed a narrow and interesting ridge, and arrived on the top of the
SKJURSNOESTIND (FIRST ASCENT) at 8
A.M. The descent to Sørfjordens Kirche was made by narrow snow couloirs down
the east face, the fjord being
reached at 11 A.M. The weather during the morning was fine.
Mr. Rawlence´s first ascent claim was corrected by Geoffrey
Hasting in the same volume:
We learn from Mr. G. Hastings that he
made this ascent on September 8, 1897, found the vestiges of a cairn
on the top, and heard of at least one person who had been
up before. He found the height to be 3,800 ft.
The traverse over
Sjursnestinden, Litletinden,
Tverrfjellet
and Sennedalfjellet. Climbed by
Kent-Hugo Norheim
and Geir Jenssen, 30. August 2009.
It took us 13 hours!
Sjursnestinden (1122)
as
seen from Litletinden
(1235). The South ridge is marked in red.
The scree that we climbed from Tredjedalen towards Point 909 south of
Litletinden.
A view towards Fjerdedalen, Fjerdedalsvatnet and the Blåisen
glacier.
The Sami name for the lake and the glacier is Jietnjajavrrit and
Olmáijietnja respectively.
A slightly difficult rock band - before reaching the South ridge - was
climbed by following the grassy ledges in the center of this picture.
The South ridge of Sjursnestinden from the notch between Sjursnestinden
and Litletinden.
The summit is to the left.
Looking down the South ridge of Sjursnestinden.
Kent-Hugo Norheim on the summit.
Sjursnes.
Sjursnestinden as seen from the North face of Litletinden.