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"Nearer was a symmetrical
graceful summit. Then came the most wildly-shattered, thin
wedgelike ridge I have ever seen, a veritable saw edge." (Aubrey
Le Blond: Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun, 1908) Sagbladet was first climbed in winter by Bjørn Arntzen and Geir Jenssen on March 27th 1983. This was also probably the first ever ascent of the peak. A short description of the South ridge route: Start from Holmbukta in Sørfjorden. Follow Goverdalen for 5-6 km until you see the glacier Goverdalsbreen to the right. Follow the glacier up to Sølvskaret, the saddle between Sagbladet and Goverdalstinden. Beware of crevasses! Follow the South ridge to the summit. Mixed climbing with running belays. |