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| Kjempetanna was first climbed
by Elizabeth Main (a.k.a. Aubrey Le Blond) and the Swiss guides Emil
and Josef Imboden on August 25th 1898. "When we were near the opposite side of the Stortinddals glacier, Emil, who was leading, turned round and enquired what mountain we proposed going up, a question which at that stage of the day's work seemed rather irrelevant. "Well," answered Imboden, "I think we will take a little walk round the Deut du Géant over there, and see what he looks like on the other side." There was no doubt as to the identity of the peak to which Imboden referred, so we proceeded towards the inaccessible-looking tooth in front of us, and hoped it might have a weak spot somewhere. As we drew closer, I asked Imboden what he thought, but he answered that perhaps after all we should do something else; and, tempted to more ambitious designs by a temporary improvement in the weather, I saw his eyes raised to the great rocky peak to our left. But very soon it began to snow again, and then we turned in earnest to the sharp tooth of rock, now quite close to us. "I think — yes, I am sure we shall get up," Imboden remarked as we topped the ridge, and had a view of the other side. A stony couloir was disclosed, and above it a crack or narrow chimney up which we hoped to swarm. Leaving knapsacks and axes on the ridge (which here forms a true pass to the head of the Koppang glacier), we commenced the scramble. At the top of the couloir we turned a tiny rock-tower by the face to our right, and then doubled back so as to gain the foot of the chimney. This contained too much loose handhold to be climbed in a hurry, and Emil and I sheltered behind a rock while Imboden threw down quantities of insecure stones. We then had a pleasant scramble with 6ngers and shoulders and elbows to the top of the chimney, whence the short ridge leading to the summit was gained. The snow had ceased for a few minutes, and it was mild and pleasant sitting by the tiny pointed top, while Emil sought for stones — which here, where we wanted them, were none too plentiful — to make the usual cairn. The name Imboden had called the little peak by suited it so well that we straightway translated it into Norwegian and christened it the Kjæmpes Tand. Regaining the pass below, we decided that it was just possible to do another new mountain before going home." Aubrey Le Blond: Mountaineering in The Land of The Midnight Sun (1908). |